We have been camping many times in Northern California, speeding by those quaint cottages along the roadside as we zoom to some wilderness spot and hastily unpack in order to take a deep breath and get away from it all. This time we decided to experience a solid roof over our heads for a visit to the magnificent redwoods during damp February.

We selected Redcrest at the northernmost end of the Avenue of Giants, a beautiful old road that parallels the newer US 101. The woodsmoke hung heavily in the air as we checked in, but the cottage was clean and quaint with a lace curtain where the closet door would go and framed pictures of foxes and forest glens screwed to the rough-paneled walls.

Howard had Pattern Recognition, the latest book by William Gibson (who wrote Neuromancer) and Anet had a new Miles Vorkosigan adventure by Lois McMaster Bujold. We read until we were mossy and rode our bikes in the drizzle, then followed the Eel River out to where it meets the Pacific. Spent the next night in Eureka in a big modern bed (much better!) and after a warm meal in a busy Italian restaurant. A nice break from the camping chow we had been heating up on the front porch of our tiny cabin.

I learned that the plumbing can be very noisy in the cabins and that they let you bring your pet. If we try this again, we'll go for the more upscale cabins at the South end of the Avenue of the Giants which have whirlpool tubs and fireplaces.